Holiday apartments in Valle Gran Rey, La Gomera

Because within a few kilometres you get dark-sand beaches, footpaths running from the mountains down to the sea, and a harbour where the whale and dolphin trips start. It is La Gomera's south-western municipality and the area with the most holiday accommodation on the island.

It still feels small: just over 4,600 residents in a deep ravine that climbs from the coast to around 1,000 metres, with hamlets tucked among terraces and palm groves.

Most people fly into Tenerife South, take the ferry from Los Cristianos to San Sebastián de La Gomera (about 50 minutes) and carry on by road. There are no flights from the UK or anywhere else in Europe straight to La Gomera: its small airport at Alajeró only has Binter flights to Tenerife North and Gran Canaria. Timetables change with the season, so check them before you book flights.

• Tenerife South Airport to Los Cristianos: taxi, hire car or TITSA bus 40.
• Ferry to San Sebastián: Fred. Olsen Express and Baleària Canarias (formerly Naviera Armas), daily sailings.
• By car to the valley: roughly 50 km of mountain road, a little over an hour.
• By bus: GuaguaGomera line 1 leaves from the ferry terminal and stops in La Calera, Vueltas and La Playa, with fares of up to €5. It is slower than driving and runs less often on Sundays.
• By sea, straight to Vueltas: Fred. Olsen's Benchi Express catamaran links San Sebastián, Playa de Santiago and Vueltas harbour in about 70 minutes, docking right opposite our apartments.

It comes down to whether you want everything on foot or peace and quiet. The lower valley by the sea takes in La Calera, Borbalán, Vueltas and La Playa; the upper valley, further up the ravine, has hamlets such as Los Granados, El Hornillo and El Retamal.

• Vueltas: the harbour quarter, with old warehouses and fishermen's houses by the beach, plus shops and services. Home to Mirador de Iguala and Retiro de Vueltas.
• La Calera: the historic quarter, its white houses perched above the valley.
• La Playa and La Puntilla: the same stretch of coast, with beaches and the Charco del Conde close by.
• El Hornillo: a hamlet deep in the ravine, among terraces and palms. Home to Casa Mimo, for village life rather than the seafront.

Valle Gran Rey's beaches are dark volcanic sand: some sheltered enough for small children, others open to the Atlantic and the sunset.

• Vueltas beach: around 100 metres beside the harbour, protected by the breakwater with no strong currents – a family favourite.
• Charco del Conde: a calm natural rock pool between La Puntilla and Vueltas, ideal for little ones.
• La Calera beach: the largest in the municipality.
• Playa del Inglés: about 300 metres below the Risco de La Mérica, with no lifeguard, so swim with care. The classic sunset spot.

La Gomera has more than 600 km of footpaths, and several start or finish in the valley itself. Boat trips along the coast leave from Vueltas harbour.

• Path of Salt and Wind: from the Mirador del Santo in Arure down to Vueltas beach; 11.7 km, about 4½ hours, moderate. Tip: take the line 1 bus up to Arure and walk home.
• El Guro – Barranco de Arure: 1 hr 15, easy, to a waterfall. Avoid it in rain or if you suffer from vertigo.
• Mirador de El Palmarejo: a César Manrique viewpoint at about 700 metres, with a restaurant and views over the whole valley.
• Garajonay National Park: the laurel forest at the heart of the island, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1986, reached via Arure.
• By boat: four-hour whale and dolphin watching trips (look for the Barco Azul badge) and cruises to Los Órganos, basalt-column cliffs you can only see from the sea.
• Sundays, 9am to 3pm: flea market beside the bus station.

Any month works: La Gomera is mild all year and the south of the island is sunnier and warmer than the north. Pack light clothes, a warm layer for evenings and higher ground, plus water and sun cream for walks.

Without a car, Vueltas is the easy choice: beach, harbour, shops and boats are all walkable, and car, kayak, paddleboard and bike hire are close by. In El Hornillo a car makes life easier: buses up the valley are limited, and Casa Mimo is reached along a 200-metre footpath that is not suitable for guests with reduced mobility.